This weekend's Michigan March weather was harsh. It's been a long, cold winter and we're ready for spring, but instead we were sent frigid winds and more snow. In a desperate plea, I posted a small video of my husband relaxing under a gazebo at our rental on Long Island's Galliot Cay. My friends went crazy. I don't blame them. There were many questions about how to get to that place. Thing is, it's not as easy as it first seems, so as a typical math teacher, I made the flow chart that I would have loved when we first started our Bahamas adventures.
Disclaimer: This is based on my own experience and does not necessarily reflect all options.
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We spend winter in Michigan planning for our next Out Island adventures. We scour satellite images of our next destination to find places we want to check out. Winding Bay on the southeast end of Cat Island gave me a lot to think about over a long, Covid restricting winter. We don't have a boat and I wanted to get there. My dream was to walk there from Greenwood Beach. Mind you, this was a secret plan because I knew it would be arduous. I hoped to get to Little Winding Bay from the north, have lunch, then find a walkable route to Winding Bay. I talked my husband into the trek to Little Winding Bay. I had a picnic planned and we were staying at Greenwood Beach, so no driving was involved. He's great about tracking tides, so I knew we had a good shot at it. Well.... the tides did not cooperate. More truthfully, we started too late. Technically, we could have gotten there, but my husband was not confident about getting back around the rocks before high tide, so we called it a day just short of Little Winding Bay. If only we had packed our cutlass (that's for you, DonK_00!). Undeterred, I asked the owners of GreenWood Beach Resort, Paulina and Antoinne, about how to walk to Winding Bay. They said to park at the small church, off the road in Port Howe. I can't remember the name of the church, but it's off the road, down a driveway. It's small. Pictures of the church are below. We parked at the church and followed the two track back through a place where land had been cleared. We could have easily driven back to the clearing and would do that next time. We continued on this two track until the road turned into a path. This path through the brush is wonderful. It's shady and cool. You will see things left behind by people crabbing and tending to the goats that use this path most often. This land was once part the Devereaux Plantation and you will see several stone walls that had been built by slaves. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of the church, but this is what it looks like:In the picture below, the circle is the church where we parked and the arrow shows the path we walked.Everything was going great until the path ended in a bulldozer clearing. Figuring goats use this path regularly, we tried finding a place where the path continued on the other side. We had a feeling the bulldozer cleared route would lead us directly to Winding Bay and we were right. Thing is, it was horrible to navigate. The bulldozer left broken spokes of small trees and shrubs about shin high that cut and scrape you in both directions. The resulting ground is very uneven and difficult to navigate. Had we known, we would have worn long pants and tennis shoes. This bulldozer even plowed through the stone fencing in a few places. We later learned that a storm had stranded a large boat in Winding Bay and the dozer was sent to retrieve what was left. I think it took us an hour to make the walk each direction, mostly due to navigating the bulldozed section. The destination was absolutely worth the hike. The day we visited, the winds were strong, making the west end of the beach rough, but the east end was perfect. We enjoyed great swimming and some of the most fishy coral heads we've seen in The Bahamas. We saw no one but goats and crabs. *** Caution, there is a small cabin to the east of the bay. It appears to be abandoned. We started climbing out to check it out and noticed food containers and water bottles stashed nearby. There was not a good vibe in this place and we backed away quickly. I'd steer clear. Just sayin'. I compiled a short video of our day at Winding Bay:I just discovered that my husband made a video to share with his fifth grade students. His video shows the super sucky bull-dozer section. It also shows a pottery shard that I found on the walk. It's most certainly from the plantation days. There is no Cat Island museum (yet), but I left it with someone to pass to the island historian.I love this video from Roy Bowers. It's perfect for those times when you need a little quiet island time. I'm probably half of the total views for this one. By the way, Roy Bowers has several really good Cat Island videos on YouTube and adds more periodically. He's a good one to follow.When searching for the perfect vacation rental in The Bahamas, most are looking for a place on a beach. We do love a good beach, but what we love more is quick access to coral heads for snorkeling whenever the mood strikes. This is a list of a few locations we have enjoyed over the years, with links to home rentals and resorts within walking distance of each. Cat Island, Northern Most End (Shanna's Cove Beach)The beaches on the northwestern end of Cat Island are spectacular for swimming and have plenty of small, but fishy coral heads very close to shore. Eat lunch at Shanna's Cove and you can walk the trail back to another beach (Might be called Man of War?). We have not stayed in this part of Cat Island, but have enjoyed many hours at the beaches there. A few rentals in this area: 1. A Home on the Beach for the Two Of You2. The Highest Residence in The Bahamas, Casa LomaNote about this home: This home is fully off grid and has amazing views. Beach access is a short, private walk and the snorkeling should be wonderful. I'm hoping we can stay here on our next trip. 3. Shanna's Cove Resort4. Tail Winds ResortCat Island, Southern Most End (Greenwood Beach)As you can see from the kite boarding video above, Greenwood Beach is a world class, pink sand beauty. It's eight miles of very soft, walkable sand and amazing coral formations the entire length. The fishiest sections are in front of the homes, about a half mile south of the resort. What these coral heads lack in fish is made up with an incredible maze of fun snorkeling through natural coral sculptures. Places to stay on this beach include: 1. Greenwood Beach Resort2. Coral Beachside3. Turquoise VillaLong Island, Galliot Cay (Cape Santa Maria Beach)This beach is absolutely awe inspiring. It has something for everyone: expansive soft white sand for walking, gentle waves and soft sand underfoot for swimming, as well as a string of fishy coral heads very close to shore. The coral stretches approximately 30 yards offshore, parallel to the beach. Deeper snorkeling is available at the southern end, near the house with cannons. If you look at a satellite map, check out the dark blue areas north of the resort, too. 1. Tangerine Sunsets, NinaThis is an apartment on the main floor of a beachside mansion. It's one of the nicest vacation rentals we've ever enjoyed and the shore-side snorkeling was amazing. 2. Cape Santa Maria ResortLong Island, Turtle Cove (to be near Dean's Blue Hole)To be completely honest, Turtle Cove is not our favorite place. I'm not sure we've even gotten into the water there. However, this neighborhood has a few rentals and they are all a nice walk to Dean's Blue Hole, which is fantastic for snorkeling. The blue hole itself is quite an experience, but the coral heads closer to the Atlantic from this beach are also great fun. An added bonus is that this beach has the most sand dollars and sea biscuits I've ever seen. 1. Cottage at Dean's Blue HoleEleuthera IslandIt's been a few years since we've visited Eleuthera, so I won't go into as much detail and I did with Cat Island and Long Island. However, there is some great beachside snorkeling on Eleuthera. Instead of sharing links to rental properties, I'll instead suggest a few locations with links to google map. Compared to Long Island and Cat Island, travel to Eleuthera is much easier. There are three operational airports and it's even possible to find direct flights from the U.S. However, be careful of flights into North Eleuthera as this will put you in for a long drive to the three places suggested below. 1. Twin Coves Beach, Governor's Harbour2. Ten Bay Beach, toward the rocky south end3. The beach behind Tippy's - find a rental at Pineapple FieldsWe just returned from a wonderful three week stay, splitting our time between Cat Island and Long Island. My husband and I love to travel and it feels great to be back doing what we love! I can tell that everyone else is feeling the urge to explore new destinations as a lot of people are asking about how we set up these trips. Here are a some basics: Nassau vs. The Out Islands (or Family Islands)Nassau (nas-aw) is the capital city, situated on the island of New Providence. The airport, Lyndon Pindling International Airport (NAS), is large and it's easy to find good fares from nearly anywhere in the United States. Nassau is a busy city and is home to large, well-known resorts. It has a lot of great shopping, wide ranging restaurants and night life options. Several cruise ships will dock here at once, creating a bustling tourist section of town. From my experience, most people think Nassau is synonymous with "The Bahamas," and thank goodness, that's not the case. If you look on a map, The Bahamas is actually a collection of around 700 islands, and cays (pronounced "keys") that number in the thousands. Approximately 30 of these islands are inhabited. Except for the city of Nassau on New Providence and Freeport on Grand Bahama, most of these are quiet islands dotted with small settlements. Think of Michigan's Upper Peninsula (another favorite destination of our's), but with warmer water and no snow. Click HERE for more details. Types of Lodging in The Out IslandsWhile there are a few exceptions, most of The Bahamas Out Islands don't host large all-inclusive resorts that are common in other parts of the Caribbean. What you will find generally fall into three categories: 1. Small Scale Traditional Resorts: Many of these are family owned and are comprised of a collection of small villas, and/or an old-style motel setup with rows of rooms that have doors opening out onto a common area. Many have an honor bar and a restaurant on site. Often, the restaurant has a meal plan offered for customers who are staying, and is also open to the public. It's best to call ahead, especially on the smaller islands. Price ranges vary as do the accommodations, so it's smart to check reviews on trip advisor and various rental sites. Don't be afraid of a less expensive and more simple resort. If possible, I always try to reserve directly from the owner's website. Ones to check out on Cat Island are Fernandez Bay, Rollezz, Pigeon Cay Beach Club, Shanna's Cove, and Greenwood Beach Resort. On Long Island, check out Chez Pierre (read my review HERE), Cape Santa Maria, and Stella Maris. If you want a similar experience in Nassau, try Orange Hill Beach Inn, or Compass Point Beach Resort. 2. Vacation Rentals: There are all kinds of homes to rent, in all different prices ranges, sizes, and locations. We started renting homes years ago when traveling with our kids because it was overall less expensive and more comfortable. Sites to use in your search are VRBO, AirBnB, and TripAdviser. Even for a vacation rental, I always do a search to check if the owner has their own website because rates might be cheaper. 3. Hotels: A traditional hotel in the Out Islands is not as common but do exist. In circumstances where you need to find just one night, searching for a local hotel might be your only option as most vacation rentals have minimum stays. Because most hotels will be locally owned, and typically used by locals, you may have to do a little more searching to find them and you may have to make a phone call as opposed to reserving online. Search the forums on Trip Advisor if you need advice. Getting ThereIf your destination happens to be Eleuthera or Exuma, you. might be able to fly direct from the United States. For any of the other Out Islands, you will need to fly into Nassau and then take a private or commercial flight to the island of your choice. Another option to get to an Out Island is to fly into Ft. Lauderdale and then take a private charter from the executive airport. Domestic Commercial Airlines: Generally, seats are $150 - $220 round trip from Nassau Southern Air Charter BahamasAir Western Air (currently the only commercial flights into Cat Island, and only on MWF.) Pineapple Air Private Pilots: If you have dates that don't coordinate with limited commercial flights, or if you have 4 or 5 people traveling, this might be your best option. By the way, this is simply a list I've collected during our most recent trip. Please contact each for prices and available airports. Marlin Air Charter: [email protected] BAM Air Charter: [email protected] Blessings Aviation Charter www.blessingsaviation.com (242) 359-1200 Island Wings: https://islandwingscharter.com Maker's Air: https://makersair.com Notes:
FoodFood is expensive on islands and The Bahamas are no exception. It does help to stay in a vacation rental where you can make your own food. Except in more established tourist locations like Eleuthera, grocery stores will feel small and limited compared to what we're used to in the U.S. Keep an eye open for farmer's markets, roadside stands, and even a table by the road with local veggies for sale. In any local market, you will see giant white chest freezers. Look in those for all kinds of frozen food choices, including pizzas, vegetables, locally caught fish and meats. If you drive by a dock in any settlement and see people cleaning and/or selling fish, stop and buy some. Check this post about a wonderful market in Orange Creek, Cat Island. Reading forums on Trip Advisor, you will notice regular questions about bringing your own groceries. You are allowed to bring frozen meat, as long as it is in its original factory sealed packaging. I have to be honest that it seems cumbersome to bring your own meat. I promise that local businesses need your patronage. If local residents can afford to pay those prices for food, all of us visitors on vacation can, too. If you have very special coffee or need particular snack items, those would be wise to pack. My motto has always been "you won't find everything you want, but will find everything you need." One spring break trip a couple of years ago, we couldn't find any potato chips for sale and it was the first vacation where we lost weight. Our habit is to eat one meal out approximately every other day. Typically, we eat a late lunch out and expect to spend around $25 each for a sandwich and a Kalik. Keep in mind, the sandwich is usually fresh, locally caught grouper or snapper or freshly made conch salad. In every case, the food is made fresh, while you wait. There is no Gordon's Food truck delivering goods on the islands! Good news! Rum is cheap. :)
BeachesThere is every kind of beach for every kind of person. If it's windy and rough on one side of the island, drive to the other side. If you want to snorkel from shore, walk pink or powdery white sand, jump from cliffs, go shelling, or just sit and watch water, you will find the beach of your dreams. More impressive is that you will likely be one of the few people there. Note: You will need to rent a car on nearly any Out Island. If you choose to stay at a resort, even renting a car for a day or two will let you explore amazing beaches all to yourself. We are not resort people. Maybe if we had the financial means to stay at a resort when our kids were little, we would have a different opinion, but overall, it's not our thing. Then, we stayed at Chez Pierre...this is not your typical resort. There are no dance lessons, kids playing in a pool, or buffets. This is a quiet place to relax, connect with the sea, and enjoy amazing food prepared by a French Canadian chef with a flair for combining Caribbean and classic European flavors. For this, we are resort people. We've travelled a lot and stayed in some amazing places, but this is, by far, my favorite. Here's why: 1. The most wonderful open air bedrooms.These remind me of the coveted shelters available to back packers on Isle Royale, except each has a bed, and a simple bathroom. The front, screened-in porch becomes the main living space, simple Bahama shuttered screen windows provide cross ventilation for the sleeping area, and the bathroom has a warm water shower, as well as shelves/pegs for clothing storage. While the shower is salt water, we felt clean and sand free during our 5 night stay. When Pierre shows you to your bungalow, he will instruct on sand management - washing your feet before entering. He recommends walking barefoot down the beach to each breakfast and dinner. Of course, we followed his suggestions and it was marvellous. 2. Start and end your day with beautiful food prepared by a chef.Walk from your bungalow, along the water's edge to Pierre's airy restaurant with a large, screened porch and a simple, Bohemian vibe. For the made to order breakfast, you have a choice of a fresh omelette, French toast, eggs with meat and toast, or yogurt with fruit. During breakfast, Pierre will ask what you prefer for dinner, with a choice between a seafood or non-seafood option daily. During our stay, we enjoyed mahi, grouper, wahoo, scallops, lobster, all accompanied by the most delicious fresh salad, sometimes pasta, and occasionally some of the best pizza we've ever eaten. Hands down, the best food we've eaten on our MANY trips to the Bahamas Out Islands was everything made by Pierre.
3. A beautiful crescent shaped, soft sand beach.Gin clear water and soft sand make for some wonderful swimming and floating. I found the sweetest little sea star on my very first dive within minutes of arriving. It's also a great beach for shelling with bleached coral pieces and shells of all kinds. We walked two beaches over in the northern direction and paddled several beaches southward. Snorkelling in the immediate beach area will not have a lot of fish, but others staying the same week as us had the thrill of seeing a nurse shark up close. We did enjoy snorkelling some nicely fishy areas surrounding the tiny cays on the south end of the beach. 4. KayaksChez Pierre has a few kayaks available for use, complete with life vests and great paddles. Even on windy days, the beach is in a protected cove, allowing for paddling fun. Near the end of our stay, we lucked out with a windless day, leaving the sea flat and crystal clear. We were able to paddle far enough south to see Salt Pond. 4. Great location For those new to the Out Islands, it might seem that a mile long stretch on a rough, unpaved road is insurmountable. However, those of us lucky to have discovered the rewards at the end of these drives know that it is worth the time to slow down, and enjoy the journey. Chez Pierre is centrally located enough on Long Island to enjoy day trips to both the extreme north end (Cape Santa Maria Beach, Columbus Point, and Stella Maris) and the south end (Gordon's Beach, Dean's Blue Hole, Galloway Beach, etc.). Salt Pond, including Hillside Market, the liquor store, gas station, and farmer's market are 15-20 minutes away. There are many, many more beaches to discover at every point between, including due east of Chez Pierre. We were looking forward to a return to Cat Island for spring break after another Michigan winter. As happens sometimes, our plans started getting a little complicated. Once those complications reached a certain point, I knew that it was meant to be - a return to Long Island with a longer stay at Chez Pierre. Within a few hours of cancelling our Cat Island plans, I had everything set for our return to this wonderful resort. We can't wait!
For more information, please check out this link: Chez Pierre For stays of 5 or more days, rates are $155 per cottage, double occupancy, which includes breakfast and dinner daily. Stays fewer than 5 days are $175 per day, double occupancy. I've been procrastinating writing this trip report for months. I suppose I want to keep this magical place a secret, hoping to preserve the qualities that make it so special. On the other hand, the local economy is so dependent on tourism and I promised a few people I met that I'd share my experience because they are hoping others will visit, too. Always true to my word, here it goes...
Lodging:
Things to See:1) Rare fresh water turtles Take care of these gentle creatures. Rare for this part of the world, these fresh water turtles, are found on the ponds on Dickie Road. Just standing on the water's edge, turtles will come swimming from every direction, hoping score a treat. 2) The Hermitage This may be one of the most photographed spots on Cat Island. Built by an British architect, turned missionary, Father Jerome created a beautiful stone hermitage on the highest spot in the Bahamas for his retirement. He passed in 1956, but left a legacy of simple but beautiful churches, including two in Clarence Town, Long Island. Locals are immensely proud of this historical site and will hope that you stop for a visit. I'm not Catholic, but was lucky to visit with someone who grew up in the church, which really added to my appreciation for this very special place. I was struck that during my two week stay on Cat Island, the stories told by two different ex-pats who felt an intense connection to this spot, The Hermitage is easy to find. In The Bight, look for a sign for Mt. Alvernia, follow the road up the hill, noticing farm plots on the way up. The spot to park is obvious and the walk up the path from there can be tricky. If mobility issues prevent you from walking up the Stations of The Cross path, you can instead continue walking on the two track, which will circle around to the back side of the Hermitage. 3) Beaches, Of Course: The beach scene is much different on Cat Island. Because the island is so much less developed, searching on Google Maps for ideas before you arrive is smart. We always make sure to have Google Maps open and fully downloaded on a phone for the island before our arrival, so that it will keep track of our progress, even without WiFi. There are not a lot of guide books, trip reports, etc. to guide visitors to beaches, so you must be willing to be adventurous and try unmarked roads and enjoy the journey. Sometimes, you find a gem, other times, it's a fun, rental car scratching adventure. Not sure of official beach names. With a few exceptions, it didn't seem like beaches had names that could be found easily. Bird Cay A local guy told us about this one, as it's one of his favorites. This Atlantic side beach is long, curving and has white sand. A long, peninsula type cay lies about 400 meters off shore, providing protection from big waves. This is a beautiful beach for swimming and walking. The local guy who told us about it has seen dolphins and turtles there and described it as magical. Directions: Immediately south of Yardie's, take the road up the hill and into the dump. Drive carefully though this area as it's an active dump. At each fork, take the left. Go approximately 3 miles. Airport Beach North of Arthur's Town, head east, travelling around the south end of the closed air field. The road turns east, and keep going about 2 miles. The road is rough, but not terrible, with evidence of sub divided plots, so the road was made with plans for development and for the time being are good(ish). As you get closer to the beach, you will see an engineered channel. This beach was good for combing, and decent for snorkeling. Arthur's Town Check out the beautiful Caribbean side beach behind the police station. Follow the same road southward and you'll eventually find Da Smoke Pot. I loved this beach, with gorgeous turquoise water and soft, white sand with the backdrop of the picturesque and sleepy settlement of Arthur's Town. Shanna's Cove This is an incredibly beautiful beach with gin-clear water near the shore that blends into cyan blue hues in the distance. A beautiful curved beach, edged with white sand, and almost entirely empty makes this a quintessential destination. We loved the beach side snorkeling and were thrilled to find some very fishy coral heads at the south end. When your beach time is done, head up the hill to Shanna's Cove Resort for a Kalik, and pizza. Orange Creek There is a great spot, right along the roadside to stop and take a dip in these crystal clear waters any time you want. I loved stopping on my way through the settlement, too tempted by the inviting cool water to pass up. The sand is soft, but wear sandals (or keep an eye open) due to glass. (This is not uncommon near settlements, and there are often sharp rocks, so I usually swim in sandals). During low tide, it's fun to swim over to the sand bar. For smaller people and not so strong swimmers be aware of the current. Read more about the settlement of Orange Creek and see a video of the grocery store HERE. West End of Dickie Road I absolutely love this spot. Low tide exposes interesting tide pools with bits of sea glass treasures. High tide gives an opportunity to take the edge off a hot day with a quick plunge and float. The seas were rough during our visit, but we did a bit of snorkeling here and were delighted with super fishy coral heads close to the iron shore. You will notice a notch cut out of the iron shore, which was once used as a public toilet. East End of Dickie Road The beach here was rough and not at all suited for getting in the water the two times I visited. However, when a moody ocean side walk is needed, this is the perfect spot. We enjoyed poking around tide pools and watching waves crash over the iron shore beach. Greenwood Beach Located on the southeastern tip of Cat Island, this is a gorgeous Atlantic side beach with incredible coral heads within a very short swim from the soft sand shore. Places We Ate: Because Cat Island is smaller and less developed, places to eat out take a little more work and planning. Don't let that prevent you from experiencing Out Island culture through local food, all while supporting small businesses. Understand that dining will truly be a farm/sea to table experience and options will be limited to what is available and calling ahead is always a good idea. Northend Liquor Technically, we didn't eat here. However, this fantastic little bar was within a 5 minute walk of our rental and at 3 for $10, happened to be the best deal on Cat Island for a cold beer. On top of that, it was an important gathering spot for residents of Orange Creek. Click HERE for my blog post on this wonderful northern Cat Island spot. Yardies (Benett's Harbour) Ice cold soda from the freezer, flour cakes with exactly the right amount of nutmeg, delicious jerk chicken, and fresh conch salad. All that and you can fill up your car's gas tank. I love jerk chicken and Odette serves it up all wonderfully spicy, with great sides, and so much food you'll get at least a second meal out of it. Da Smoke Pot (Arthur's Town) We were passing through and decided to stop for a cold Kalik. The setting is lovely and the conversation even better. Hopefully, we'll be able to stop for a meal on our next visit. Flora's (Arthur's Town) I met Flora when she was working at the nearby elementary school, getting the building ready for the school year to start. I was there to take advantage of the WiFi so I could check in with my family. She and I chatted a few days until she asked me to try her food sometime. One thing lead to another and we had Flora make us some roasted chicken with slaw and corn. It was delicious and a treat to have a meal out. Flora's food stand is on the western edge of the basket ball court in Arthur's Town. Mary's Crab Shack (Port Howe) I saw a video showcasing Mary's local baked crab and it did not disappoint. We were so lucky to drive by and find her place open. She had many tasty treats for sale, but we only tried the baked crab. The meat is taken out of the shell, mixed with spices, pork and breadcrumbs, then packed back in the shell and baked. The heat was a perfect level and I loved the bits of rosemary. Da Pink Chicken (south end) This is a wonderful place to stop for a drink, eat delicious and very fresh food made by Patty, shoot the breeze with everyone else who shows up, take a dip in the creek, and well, just relax. Even if you're a little hungry, I highly recommend anything Patty makes. I still dream about the grilled red snapper. What I left on the plate when I finished eating looked like a cartoon of fish bones. We have been fortunate to enjoy many visits to The Out Islands, including Eleuthera and Long Island. Out of all our trips, the two weeks spent on Cat Island gave us the best exposure to Bahamian culture. Every trip to the Out Islands has been absolutely beautiful, and Cat Island is no different. However, the beauty of this island has a different quality, more mystical. I've had the privilege to travel all over the world and never felt as welcomed by locals as we were by the residents of Cat Island. We are already planning our return trip this spring.
Located on the northern tip of Cat Island, about 300 miles southeast of Miami, is the beautiful and very quiet settlement of Orange Creek. It's close to being one of those described as "if you blink, you'll miss it." However, this beautiful little settlement has a lot to offer. Framed by lush green hills, this creek side settlement is nestled next to a gorgeous cyan-blue tidal creek. Steps from the road take you beach side for a quick swim. Check ahead of time for fishing and boating opportunities. The Orange Creek grocery is one of the best on Cat Island. You can find nearly anything you need here, including 5 gallon jugs of fresh water, and refills for l.p. gas tanks. Make note, the market is closed on Saturdays. I've been curious about Cat Island for a couple of years. For our first visit to an island, I try to find a budget friendly place to stay and it took me a while to find one on Cat Island. With some perseverance, I found Sarah's Cottage on Trip Advisor, where even with a two week minimum stay, at $50 a night, it was still in my budget. Since my husband, Dan, could only join for the last week, I invited my Aunt Becky and her friend, Virginia for the first week. Like nearly all of my extended family, Becky had grown up in a very rural, close-knit, quiet spot in Southern Indiana and I had a feeling she would love the slow, homespun feel of Cat Island. She's also an artist and my gut feeling was that Cat Island possesses the kind of beauty that gives those with an artistic eye inspiration. I think I was right on both counts. We loved staying at Sarah's Cottage. The house sits atop a steep iron shore, so it is not possible to get into the water. However, we loved hearing waves, views of water out of the back of the house, and watching two sea turtles make a daily visit while we watched from the picnic table. A bit further down the road is the best little bar on Cat Island, called North End Liquor Store, where Kaliks are 3 for $10. It's a tiny little bar and the perfect place to meet locals. Walk another little bit and you come into Orange Creek, with a beautiful sandy spot for swimming and the best grocery store on Cat Island. While walking is great, I do suggest renting a car to explore more of Cat Island for part of your stay and Nick, your host, will help you set that up. Orange Creek has a nice little beach.The house is located in a very small patch of homes south of Orange Creek, giving visitors a true taste of life in The Bahamas Out Islands. Days spent at home are perfect for reading, doing art, or just sitting on the front porch and watching birds, neighborhood dogs, lizards, and neighbors who visit to check on each other. This is not a vacation home suited for everyone as you will turn on your gas for cooking from the outside, you will need to turn on the water heater if you want hot water, and potable water must be obtained from the market. You will pay additionally for your electrical use during your stay. Without air conditioner use, it will easily be under $5 a day. While it is a bit more rustic than a typical vacation rental, this has everything you need for a simple, quiet and relaxing stay. Nick and Manette are wonderful hosts. Nick will pick you up at the airport, making stops for provisions and providing an excellent introduction to Cat Island on the drive to Sarah's Cottage. One member of our group spoke about being fearful of snorkeling and Nick showed up to provide a lesson for her. Both Nick and Manette are quick to answer questions and respond quickly to anything that pops up. Note: Price quoted in video is $75 a night, but should have been $50 a night.Thanks to Becky, we had a lot of fun making prints and creating memory books during our week together.If you've visited many warm island locations, you may have noticed a cultural acceptance of stray dogs. Sometimes, those dogs belong to a family, sometimes they belong to a neighborhood, and sometimes they are straight up strays. A lot of the time, a handful of dogs hang out together in their own neighborhood "pack" and are a mix of all designations. Collectively, they are called "potcakes" because sometimes people will feed them "cakes" made from leftovers. We've enjoyed potcakes on nearly all of our Out Island trips. Sometimes, a potcake will appear out of nowhere and spend the day at a beach with us. Once, we stayed in Tarpum Bay and watched the daily parade of a young boy riding up and down the street on his bike, with a big brown potcake trailing behind. For my two week stay on Cat Island, I was prepared to be grumpy towards the neighborhood potcakes. When our host gave us a tour of the house where we stayed, he explained that a previous guest had allowed the dogs in the house and that we'd have to be very firm. Truth is, it only took a few days to establish with our neighborhood pups that we were in charge and they were not a pest at all. They're dogs. Just like kids, it's not that they didn't TRY to come into the house, hang out on the porch, or wait just outside our back door. However, they were quick to learn that they were fine to sleep under our back yard sea grapes, enjoy the shade under our Jeep, or walk with us down the road. Truth is, I loved having them around. Of course, I named them and spoke to each - especially the couple of days I stayed at the house alone. They are definitely not living a cushy, indulgent life, but in a lot of ways, it's a perfect combination of freedom and friends that most dogs don't get. I'm not about to kick the smallest runt of the potcake posse off the porch when it's raining.I've had a fascination with the Bahamas from an early age. Raised on a farm in rural Michigan, I didn't get out much. We didn't know people who went on vacation, and travel time was always by car to visit relatives. When I was about 8, my parents had an opportunity to travel to the Bahamas for a week. I'm not sure what that trip was about, except that my parents returned with the most spectacular shells and a couple of photos of the most beautiful water I had ever seen. Years later, in the mid 1980s, while studying at Michigan State University, I joined the Adventure Club with the sole motive of going on their $350 week-long sail from Miami to the Bahamas. Everything about that week was pure magic. Well, everything except for the sea leg sickness for the week after I returned. That was a pure, living hell. Even so, spending the return week with the walls spinning was a small price to pay for a week in paradise. The captain we hired for the sailing trip kept us in completely remote locations, landing us in anchorages where we were not only the only boat, but usually the only people within sight. The one exception was an anchorage outside a tiny settlement somewhere in the northern Bahamas. There were a couple of houses and a tiny bar on the beach. The bar was probably 700 square feet, had a sand floor and a simple wooden bar the length of one end. Our captain told us we'd all be enjoying "Captain's Punch" that night and instructed us to buy what we wanted and pour it into a communal bowl. Before long, the bar was filled with locals, music started up, we were dancing, laughing and having a great time - a bunch of college kids from Michigan and a bunch of local kids from a little spot in the Bahamas. Somehow, we all successfully navigated the nighttime swim back to the boat and the tricky climb up the ladder to our beds. It's all about the people you know and without our captain, we would never have hooked up with that amazing night in that tiny remote bar. Likewise, when we were picked up at the airport on Cat Island before stopping at the rental home, our host asked if we'd like to stop for a Kalik at a tiny bar just down the road. Our host, Nick, introduced us to Clonious, the owner of a tiny little bar south of Orange Creek called North End Liquors and explained that this was the best deal on Cat Island with 3 beers for $10. Exhausted from a long day of travel, we each ordered our elixir, Clonious took the cap off each of our bottles, and we followed Nick to the water's edge behind the little wooden building so we could enjoy the sunset. It was marvelous. Over the course of my two week stay, we walked down to Clonious' bar several times. We had the opportunity to chat with all kinds of area people, and to enjoy the pulse of life on Cat Island. Whenever we passed, walking or in the car, anyone hanging out on the front porch waved and hollered greetings. It was really nice to feel so welcomed when we were clearly outsiders. Nearly every visit, Clonious' parting words were "Come back again and bring all your friends!" Our last night, I invited my husband to walk down for a some Kaliks. I asked Clonious if I could take a picture of him and explained that I might be posting it online. He responded with "Of course! Why did you wait so long?" He then asked if I would take photos of the front and post those, too. Of course, I promised I would. On that last visit, Clonious' bar was uncharacteristically packed with Emancipation Day celebrators. The front porch was filled with guys enjoying a few drinks together and I didn't want to take a picture without their permission. I explained that Clonious wanted me to share a picture with my friends back home and did they mind being in it, they were not only happy to oblige, but pulled us into conversation about their beautiful island, their history and how we should return. These guys were so ready to tell Dan and me all about Cat Island that we never even went around back to sit and watch the waves. Once again during my two week stay, I was struck at the deep seated pride residents hold for their home. It was also a lesson on visiting the local spots. Not only does the local economy get a boost, but the connections made with people can make memories that will last a lifetime. Dan and the guy directly under the window started talking music, inspiring our new friend to launch into "Have you eve seen the rain?" just as a huge clap of thunder hit directly overhead, sending us all into peals of laughter. It was one of those magical human moments that makes for the best vacation souvenir.< Sitting on the iron shore behind Northside Liquor, looking south.Becky and Virginia's last night on Cat Island, behind Clonious' place, looking northwest. |
AuthorI'm a mom to two, wife to one, and a math teacher to many. We live on Michigan's West Coast, in the beautiful town of Holland. We love the people, natural beauty, and peaceful vibe of the Bahamas Out Islands. Archives
December 2021
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